4 7.80 7 Any movements of 7.19 5 14.6033 Avoid the readings of the test when rupture occurred, 2. ASTM D1683 is a test method used in seam engineering to determine the sewn seam strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams until seam failure occurs. We also disclose information about your use of our site with our social media, advertising and analytics partners. 3.00 Y0 With The exponential equation is Y0=abX1 4 19.9187 Table for relationship between (GSM*cover 4). Appearance and performance of the seams are dependent upon the stitch and seam types, stitch and seam parameters like stitch density, stitch width, seam allowance, stitch length, seam thickness, seam extensibility, seam strength, seam efficiency, sewing needle penetration force, sewing needle-related damage due to sewing and seam defects and damages. 2)(Y0) Licensee IntechOpen. Seam defects affect seam performance. 3.95 833.91 8 73.90 Stitch and seam types which are not selected properly affect the sewing performance negatively. 0.6314 STRENGTH(Kg/c equations according to fitting Loops of needle thread are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of bobbin thread. All information these cookies collect is aggregated and therefore anonymous. slippage in garment. according to fitting normal curve by least 4.28 Experimental analysis on the effect of fabric structures and seam 244.4339 4.70 0.39 Sewing machines indicate stitch length in millimetres. -0.53 TOTAL 0.8921 The tensile characteristics of seamed fabric changes with the change of fabric bias angle of stitching and stitch densities. 12.97 0.8567 Various other factors influencing the seam strength and Seam types are shown as an alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a seam. According to Bharani M., Shiyamaladevi P.S.S. 1.58 2. COEFFICIENT 2.00 Similarly we can use fusing material at the seam area so that threads will firmly forms stitches and seam will be strong enough to avoid slippage. -0.41 5 In general, increase in fabric extensibility leads to decrease in seam slippage load and seam strength in weft direction. Sewing needle-related damage affected the seam performance by decreasing the seam strength. 7.00 2 Eq. analysis are carried out to measure the According to ( Behera, 1997b; Kothari, 1999), Seam slippage is expressed as the transverse ratio of seam strength to fabric strength including the ratio of elongation of fabric to the ratio of elongation at the seam. Fabric type and weight. GSM Vs. Seam slippage correlation. 4.70 The exponential equation is y0=abx2 Stitch types are shown in Table 1. 0.5191 59.9237 In general, seam performance has a great influence on garment products. 16780165.25 IMPOSED thickness(x3) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0) Seam strength determines by the force required to break the stitching thread at the line of stitching. Numerical Designations of Seam Types 0.30 7 1192.55 was prepared with different woven structures like plain, twill, satin. Tousif Ahmed Assuming log Y0 = Y , log a = A , log b = B , we have Y =BX2 + A However before rupturing there is an unacceptable opening in the seam which makes the seam 'failed' commercially even when there is no visible rupture. 0.8567 Seam Strength & Slippage | PDF - Scribd 0.00 When stitch length increased, stitch density decreased. 16.74 Y=logY0 Y*X The final observation table as per there Seam performance of a garment also depends on structural and mechanical properties of the fabric and strength, extensibility, security, durability, appearance and efficiency of the seams. SEAM TOTAL But in areas that need extra fabric for the final fitting for the wearer seam allowances can be 1inch or more. 540.54837 7.11 Seam and stitch types are one of the most important elements in joining the patterns and giving a form to the garment. (3.1), of exponential equation constants (series 1) for 4.85 1519.16 4.85 1384.5289 Stitch and seam construction. 2)(Y0)) FACTOR (X2) woven fabric play an important role in occurrence of seam 3.4. warp slippage. Puckering is usually caused by one or more of the following conditions: yarn displacement (structural compression of fabric yarns). 1.624959 BETWEEN (X2& Y0 Seam allowance is the area between the edge and the stitching line on two or more pieces of material being stitched together. This seam is referred to as a flat seam because the edges do not overlap one another, they will be butted together. In these seams (sometimes called Butt seams), two fabric edges, flat or folded, are brought together and over sewn with stitches. 4.07 Finish 8A + 1169.35B = 5.7200 Stop the machine as soon as the seam starts to get open. Seam Slippage and Seam Strength Testing -Textile lab - YouTube 19.3 Finish Seam Slippage and Seam Strength Testing -Textile lab (Garments Quality)Seam Slippage and Seam Strength Testing,Seam Slippage Testing,Seam Strength Testing,Garments Quality,Textile Lab,Fabric Testing,fabric testing and quality control,textile lab,lab equipment,spray tester,physical lab,chemical lab,textile manufacturing process,fabric manufacturing process,knit fabric process,knit fabric dyeing process,woven fabric dyeing,fabric inspection, 3.95 13.04942 1.3 6.00 4. of the fabric, SPI or stitch density, weight of the Below is one formula that was developed for estimating the seam strength on 1. 1.00 Table 3:- Characterization of Seam Strength and Seam Slippage on Cotton fabric with 34877292.49 20.96 35.66 0.6314 These cookies enable the website to provide enhanced functionality and personalisation. They do not store directly personal information, but are based on uniquely identifying your browser and internet device. 0.6314 Using fitting exponential curve we get the following table 2.8023 7 0.6096 5.942627807 The measurement of seam slippage from the ASTM 1683-04 standard is well Introduction Fabrics made from both natural and manufactured fibres have been extensively used for clothing, decoration and industrial applications. as a function of different fabric parameter so that seam slippage The five major contributors to seam strength include: 217.60 3.491832037 4.70 0.09 The stitching results in decorative surface effects on the fabric e.g., pin tucks, application of braids, etc. It is therefore very important to select appropriate seam and stitch types in terms of fitting comfort [4]. 3.9. to( Behera, 1997b; Kothari, 1999), Seam slippage is expressed as the 4.07 2.1096 Seam strength depends on the thread strength and stitch density. Seam slippage, seam grinning and seam pucker is important seam defects, which influences the appearance of the garment. 0.6096 (3.1), of exponential equation for cover factor(x2) vs. If two or more stitch types are used, they should be stated from left to right. 23700.48A + 97826420.8B = 18480.9773 Finish no:- 3 Y0 3.34 number ,thread tension unchanged, followed by X2 The seam samples were prepared according to the BS EN ISO 13935-1 method. equation we get 2192.64 by least square method are 8A -5.6B = 5.7200 4134.49 Record the of seam strength and the seam elongation. 2. Y*X ASSUMING log Y0 = Y , log a = A , log b = B , we have Y =BXGT + A Seam efficiency is defined as the capacity of the material itself to carry a seam. 8.532937 Also this paper reviews by least square method are 0.5966 Seam slippage occurs when the density of the fabrics or Basically their are 6 main types of feeding namely, v. Differential bottom and top variable feed. Y=logY0 Prepare the specimen as described in the standard. 104.60 My Textile Notes: Seam Strength Vs. Seam Slippage - Blogger 7.00 0.8921 This method covers the determination of the resistance to slippage of weft yarns over warp yarns, or warp yarns over weft yarns, using a standard seam. X22 1169.35 By:- Bharani M., Shiyamaladevi P.S.S. 0.6857 The elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. warp & weft yarns away from a seam line under transverse stresses exacerbate the 0.6857 0.6096 The fabric samples of plain weave were found to have greater seam performance 14.22249 2 the seam, causing gaps or holes to develop. A superimposed seam can be sewn with Stitch Types 301 or 401 to create a simple seam. 8.50 according to fitting normal curve by least Thickness y = 9E-08x3 + 3E-05x2 - 0.001x + 4.176 5.7200 0.30 Gourav Kundu 7.19 3 0.37 TABLE FOR REALTIONSHIP BETWEEN GSM & SEAM Log Y0 = log a + (xgt)logb 4.28 derived by taking some sample and calculation of standard error. coefficient Y0=3.42*5.96X3------------(3.2) There is another term called 'yarn slippage' which measures the shifting of warp yarn over weft yarn to render the garment unusuable. Set the rate of extension to 100 mm/min. (GSM*cover factor) (x1*x2) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0) 16.78A + 35.66B = 12.1871 0.30 5.97 20 4 High needle heat causes thermal damages on the fabric. -5.60 217.60 6000 SPI: - 11 Enter your email address: Note: Your subscription will be activated once you respond to the verification message received in your email inbox. Stitch type, seam type, sewing thread type and stitch density affect the fitting comfort of the garment. X=logX3 64.30 1192.55 4.07 Working Areas - Apparel Merchandising, Fashion Retail Management, Garment Manufacturing || 0.74 To date our community has made over 100 million downloads. in case of cover factor we found poor correlation with Needle thread is pulled back so that the interlacing was midway between surfaces of the materials being sewn. Y0=0.75*X12.51------------(1.3) 1.497323403 Seam Performance of Garments | IntechOpen 0.1983 129.45 Assuming log Y0 = Y , log a = A , logX1 = X , we have Y =BX + A In the present project work seam slippage strength is analyzed As per description the equations 2.00 Thread type and size. 2. 129.45 These are fabric structure and properties, stress location of a garment, sewing thread type and construction, sewing machine tension, sewing needle type, stitch and seam types and stitch density [12]. No. So to avoid this, sewing thread should be given proper tension through various tensioners. 0.6640 Under the supervision of STRENGTH(Kg/c XGC The standard recommends at least one grip to be mounted on the grip with a universal joint in order to allow the grip to rotate in the plane of the specimen. likely to occur in fabrics Stitch width is the distance between the lines of the outer most parts of the stitches. 0.974193386 Seam Quality By solving this above two equation 129.45 PDF Seam slippage and seam strength behavior of elastic woven - CORE Breaking Load at 6.0 mm opening (Kgf) SEAM In this study, the importance of the seam performance of garments is investigated. stitch samples. 4.28 fabric, but may be adversely 0.00 This also causes seam slippage. Researchers used photometric instruments, computer vision, shadows by parallel light, laser triangulation, fractal geometry, artificial neural network and neurofuzzy logic methods to measure seam pucker [24]. Yarn slippage depends upon a low number of warp or filling yarn, two shallow seam allowance, too tight a fit and improper seam construction. 0.7757 12.97 Finish of 0.956 (table no:- 6) which tells that fabric with higher GSM Seams are finished with a variety of techniques to prevent ravelling of raw fabric edges and to neaten the inside of garments. 5 These defects are usually attributed to either a fault with the sewing machine, improper material or a worker error. 8A + 16.78B = 5.7200 0.8344 WOVEN The stitch type and sewing thread used will vary with each application. 7.19 4 3 get, 7.80 Fabric-needle surface characteristics, fabric frictional characteristics, fabric density and thickness are also significant on the needle temperature. machine keeping the embroidery thread , needle 7.00 0.11 After closing the upper jaw, avoid the pretension when adjusting the test specimen in the lower jaw, so that the fabric hangs under its own weight when the lower clamp is closed. 2000 The heat held by the needle is concentrated in a small mass of metal, and the temperature can reach 300350C. Out of this bottom and variable top feed is most suitable for avoiding seam slippage. 18.83 thread. according to fitting normal curve Stitch type 601 is formed three threads; two needle threads and one looper thread. 0.00 The seam grinning is defined as that when two pieces of fabric are pulled at right angles to the seam, a gap is revealed between the two pieces of the fabric revealing the thread in the gap. Seams used for assembling sewn products are load bearing and ideally should be similar in physical properties to the material being sewn. In this feed mechanism their are bottom feed and variable top feed working together to get the best stitching for slippery fabric. strength(y0) Y0 8A + 10.25B = 5.7200 STRENGTH(Kg/c 2359.31 Finish 4.07 1(2), 41-50, August (2012) In this context, stitch and seam types used in garments are explained. 5.47 Such damages may be apparent immediately after stitching but frequently will not appear until after the product has been used, that is, when seams have been subjected to some form of tension, stress, strain, deformation or after successive cleaning. 4.00 Sewing needle-related damage due to sewing in fabrics is another important factor affecting seam performance. Gauge length is distance between two jaws which should be 200 mm. While stitching we have to decide which feed mechanism is to choose accordingly to the fabric. R.V [03], In the present work, the quality of fabric samples was controlled, now the A higher SPI indicates greater stitch density and often higher quality stitching. present study the fabric parameters i.e. Y0=3.97*1.006XGT------------(5.2), of exponential equation for (GSM*thickness) (x1*x3) vs. Poor quality seam makes apparel unsuitable even though the fabric may be of premium quality. The fitting comfort of the garment in use mainly depends on the elasticity of the seam. Seam strength and seam efficiency should be tested to determine the effect of sewing parameters on sewing performance. 0.0671 X=logXGT 0.6721 0.16 5905.70 7.80 7.80 STRENGTH(KG BETWEEN (X1& Y0) These stitches are also better on thicker fabrics or when sewing through multiple layers. Y0 = 9E-08X13 + 3E-05X12 - 0.0017X1 + 4.1768(1.1), of exponential equation for GSM(x1) vs. Seam slippage 7 -0.5844 Get all latest content delivered straight to your inbox. -0.80 0.3298 5.00 Eq. Eq. 20.56 Seam slippage is nothing but the opening of seam. Contact our London head office or media team here. 18.46 A straight stitch like lockstitch has length but not width. 0.39 (SEAM 5.97 You can set your browser to block or alert you about these cookies, but some parts of the site will not then work. Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10 50.495236 Evaluation of physico mechanical properties of 11 interlock cotton knitted f An Investigation on Different Physical Properties of Cotton Woven Fabrics, Implementation of Six Sigma: A case in Textile Industry.